Sports have been a vital part of society since ancient times. Over time, events, purposes, regulations, cultures, and norms have changed, including the inclusion of women in professional sports. Although women have now succeeded in entering and sustaining their presence in sports, the disparity remains palpable. One of which is about women’s sportswear. To this day, beside freedom of movement and performance support, women’s athletic wear is often viewed through the lens of fashion, style, and sexuality. 

Women, Sports, and Women’s Sportswear

The fight for women to break into the world of sports was a cause championed by enslaved women. A breakthrough came when women first competed in sports at the Olympics in 1900. Though women’s participation in sports improved despite persisting sexism, things were far from equal. 

At the time, female tennis players were required to wear skirts and long-sleeved tops that covered their entire bodies so they could compete without compromising their “feminine” image. This type of regulations and norms that restrict women athletes’ choices in what they wear—rooted in misogyny—persists and remains relevant across various sports globally. 

In 1928, women athletes competing for the first time in the Olympic’s track and field events wore loose-fitting T-shirts and baggy shorts. By the 1980s, new styles emerged: leggings, singlets, leotards, vests, and tight crop tops that accentuated athletes’ figures. A similar situation arose in football. Initially, the attire consisted of loose-fitting shorts and tops. Later, in 2004, FIFA President Sepp Blatter made a controversial statement suggesting that female footballers should wear form-fitting uniforms, similar to those worn in volleyball. He said, “That decision was taken to create a more female aesthetic, so why not do it in fashion?”

The Fight Over What to Wear

As sports evolve, women athletes continue to challenge double standards in athletic attire. At times, they do so despite existing regulations.

In 1935, women handball players were permitted to wear loose-fitting uniforms during competition. However, a 2014 handball match in Spain sparked outrage among women handball athletes.The European Handball Federation (EHF) then mandated the use of bikinis by female handball players, with tops and bottoms having a maximum width of 10 centimetres. Meanwhile, male athletes were allowed to wear anything, including loose clothing with more coverage.

Then, in 2021, the European Handball Federation (EHF) fined the Norwegian women’s handball team during an event in Bulgaria. The 1,500 euro fine was for choosing to wear shorts instead of bikinis. When the news spread on social media, many people expressed anger and supported the Norwegian team. Norway’s Minister of Culture even weighed in, describing the incident as an example of the archaic, patriarchal attitudes prevalent in international sports.

Furthermore, the noise over women’s sportswear often goes beyond regulations. In 1985, Anne White faced taunts from the audience when she wore a white full-body suit during her tennis match. In 2018, Serena Williams wore a black full-body suit and received negative comments, with some calling her look “ridiculous”. While they also received support from other women athletes and feminist activists, the loud pushback signaled the prevalent sexism in sports.

Layers of Intersectionality

Discussions on women’s sportswear have layers. Women, including women athletes, are not a monolith with one set of backgrounds, values, and priorities. For instance, women’s athletic apparel may spark conflicts over cultural and religious values. This is particularly a source of debate in Muslim-majority countries. Some sports, such as beach volleyball, require women to wear bikinis. This regulation creates barriers that would otherwise allow more diverse women athletes to compete professionally.

Another example arose from Alice Dearing, Britain’s first Black female Olympic swimmer. Her swim cap was deemed in violation of FINA regulations because it did not conform to the “natural shape of the head”. In reality, the cap had been specially designed to accommodate her thick, curly Afro-textured hair.

Furthermore, while much of the debate on women’s sportswear is against tight-fitting, revealing attires, the reverse exists. Consider hurdling athlete Xia Sining. She faced criticism for allegedly wearing “inappropriate” attire designed to shave 0.01 seconds off her race time while competing at the 2024 Chinese National Games. Instead of focusing on her athletic achievements, the public fixated on her sportswear. This example shows a broader pattern: when women athletes compete, audiences often focus more on their clothing rather than their performance. 

Steps Forward

The fight to achieve meaningful inclusion that celebrates the diversity of women in sports includes achieving equality and dignity in women’s sportswear. This, at its core, is about women having the autonomy to choose athletic attires that best support their performances and are in line with their values. The progress toward this ideal requires changes in both regulations and norms. And while improvement may not be easy, the struggle is not always hopeless.

After the Norwegian women’s team’s protest, the International Handball Federation (IHF) changed its uniform regulations that same year. Moving away from bikinis, female athletes are now permitted to wear sleeveless tops and tight shorts. Another change came after the debate over Alice Dearling’s swim cap. A year later, the International Swimming Federation finally approved specialized equipment for certain athletes.

The Struggle Continues

In mid-2026, the sports world was stirred up once again. Novig promoted its “Just Sports” advertising campaign, featuring actress Sydney Sweeney. In the ad, she appeared unclothed while pretending to play various sports. The ad then sparked a range of reactions, including criticism.

Critics shared the view that the ad promoted the persistent over-sexualization of women in sports. British sprinter Amy Hunt and Australian swimmer Ariarne Titmus described the ad as a “slap in the face” to female athletes who have dedicated their lives—and their blood, sweat, and tears—to competition. World boxing champion Skye Nicolson posted an Instagram Reel expressing her frustration with the ad. She wrote, “Stop sexualizing women in #sport.”

This advertisement seemed to signal a setback to challenge the norms in women’s sportswear. Still, it has not extinguished the hope and the fight for justice and dignity for women in sports.

Editor: Nazalea Kusuma

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