The fashion industry is one of the world’s largest industries and a driver of the global economy. However, it is also infamous for the amount of waste it generates across the value chain. The most obvious one is the mountains of “waste” made of unworn garments, like in the Atacama desert. But there is also a less visible issue somewhere early in the production stage: textile wastewater. And as production keeps ramping up in the fashion and textile industry, so does the impact. 

Fast fashion is a key driver of this issue. It revolves around producing low-priced items designed for the rapidly changing trends. From unknown names to brands such as Shein, Temu, Zara, and H&M, they churn out thousands of fashion items for each microtrend at a breakneck pace, normalizing a culture of disposable clothing. This rapid cycle—from production and purchase to usage and disposal—intensifies the problem.

Big Industry, Big Footprint

The fashion industry is the second-largest generator of waste, after the oil industry. Early in the production stage, the process includes producing the very fabrics we need to make clothes, shoes, and bags. The textile industry even produces materials for things beyond fashion, such as upholstery, cheesecloth, and protective suits. The usage is diverse, and, at the same time, the environmental footprint is massive. 

Water is utilized at every stage, from raw material preparation and dyeing to fabric washing, resulting in massive quantities of liquid waste. The water required for dyeing alone is enough to fill two million Olympic-sized swimming pools annually. And thus, this dyeing process generates around 280,000 tonnes of textile wastewater each year. In total, the textile industry accounts for 20% of global industrial wastewater in estimates, equaling the annual water needs of 110 million people. 

Textile wastewater contains toxic substances such as dyes, heavy metals, surfactants, and recalcitrant organic compounds. When discharged into rivers and water bodies without proper treatment, these pollutants can harm the ecosystems as well as human health. Exposure to textile wastewater can cause allergies, dermatitis, skin irritation, and even cancer.

Textile Wastewater Around the World

China alone, the world’s largest textile producer, discharges over 2.5 billion tons of textile wastewater annually. Other countries that contribute significantly to the global textile industry are Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, and India. However, while the textile sector boosts employment and national economies for those developing countries, textile wastewater management has not kept pace with this growth.

Bangladesh, for example, is the world’s second-largest garment exporter, trailing only China. The country accounts for up to 6.8% of the global textile export market. Yet, a 2014 study found that only 61% of facilities had textile wastewater plants. 

Vietnam’s textile sector is also expanding rapidly, along with the resulting environmental challenges. In key textile hubs like Thanh Dien and Ly Nhan, untreated textile wastewater has been documented as being discharged directly into water bodies. 

Meanwhile, Indonesia’s Citarum River, which hosts over 2,000 textile factories, has been labeled one of the world’s most polluted rivers. India is also facing similar problems. Textile recycling factories in the Indian city of Panipat discharge untreated textile wastewater into the Yamuna River. And crops in West Bengal contain excessive levels of metals because they are irrigated with water contaminated by textile wastewater. 

A Thoughtful Approach to the Fashion Industry

The availability of raw materials and labor, combined with the constantly evolving nature of the fashion world, has led to a booming textile industry in many developing economies. Concerningly, this growth constantly outpaces the capacity to manage its waste. Government intervention is, therefore, essential to create balance. At the very least, governments must tighten quality standards for discharged waste. Strict periodical monitoring and auditing is also key to robust enforcement of regulations to ensure genuine compliance from businesses.

Businesses also need to conduct regular reviews and evaluations and develop innovations. Overproduction remains the primary issue, and nothing short of industry overhaul will be enough. However, in the meantime, businesses can start with selecting the right raw materials to reduce excessive chemical use. They can also switch key processes such as washing and dyeing to more eco-friendly alternatives. Moreover, water recycling systems that allow reuse of treated water, creating a closed loop, can also conserve water, a key raw material in the industry.

As consumers, practicing mindful fashion consumption may not be easy as it sounds. But, it is necessary if we want to reduce our environmental footprint as an individual and a collective. Buying only what we need and will use for a long time is a good first step. Instead of fast fashion for microtrends, consumers should consider buying second-hand items or timeless, durable pieces from producers with responsible practices. 

A more thoughtful approach to fashion is not a one-man show or a one-size fits all. It requires the collaboration of science, art, policy, and the will to change from all actors across the value chain depending on various socioeconomic and cultural contexts. After all, sustainable fashion should not just be a buzzword to attract consumers’ attention. It must genuinely drive transformation to reduce the industry’s harm to people and the planet alike.

Editor: Nazalea Kusuma

Co-create positive impact for people and the planet.

Amidst today’s increasingly complex global challenges, equipping yourself, team, and communities with interdisciplinary and cross-sectoral insights on sustainability-related issues and sustainable development is no longer optional — it is a strategic necessity to stay ahead and stay relevant.

Join Membership Partner with Us